Neville George Mullard or Bunt (chief protagonist) in Paul Theroux‘s novel KOWLOON TONG (about Hong Kong) considered his manager’s act of ‘to wake up and take the train to the People’s Republic of China and return before ten the same morning’ a foolish act and our friends too had similar misgivings about our decision to cover Hong Kong-Beijing-Shanghai by super fast air-conditioned trains. This was in 2009 and the Shanghai high-speed Maglev train was in introductory stage otherwise this too would have figured in our itinerary. We went ahead with our plans and despite the lost hours on the tracks the journey was a learning experience guided by alphabet of train. T is special express with C and D the flying ones followed by Z the direct express trains. There is a choice of bunks linked to dollars and for us it was the 4 bunk soft sleeper, spacious and carpeted with personal TV, clean crisp sheets, comforters, pillows, hangers, luggage compartment (at the top), hot water flask, step-on garbage-bin, mirrors, reading lights and new different colored slippers. A luxury compared with train travel in my home country India. If one has the money one can opt for Deluxe sleeper for two with toilet en suite. For the Four sleeper travelers there is choice between squatting and western toilets at the two ends of the coach and towards end of journey it is/was difficult to locate a clean one with toilet rolls. Anyways it is through train and, like us, one could go clean toilet-spotting. The Hung Hom station was crowded, too many people preferring track travel, but to credit of passengers we queued up for our berths except for the slight mishap of standing in different queue till corrected by an impassive ticket checker. T 98 streamed out of Hung Hom at 15:15 p.m. sharp. The layers of my travel misgivings were slowly peeling off and I settled down waiting for others passengers of our coach. A single person walked in, uneffusive, and settled down on his upper berth. We were three by now and the fourth berth remained a silent witness to our sense of space. The train, meanwhile, continued on its journey passing Sha Tin (Hong Kong’s New Territories) on way to Lo Wu (HK/China border), the familiar Pearl River Delta green belt and continued across to Guangzhou ignoring Shenzhen, the shopping city of millions dreams. A continuous drizzle added a chimerical effect to the picturesque antiquated ‘shark’s teeth’ mountains of the Delta. The magic moment soon passed with pastoral-landscape metamorphosing into warehouses and buildings with trees planted along tracks, probably serving as cover-ups for the habitats, and with no English signage to figure out where we were heading to, left it to conjecture. I tried asking a fellow-traveler, the minute she got off her cell phone, but her expressionless stare put an end to any friendly overtures. Language was a major issue, four years in Hong Kong and I still did not know Cantonese, and decided to buy English/Mandarin dictionary in Beijing. By now feeling hungry we walked to the restaurant car, a few carriages away and managed a table after a wait of few minutes. The menu offered limited choice and pictures were of no help either and ordered whatever appeared palatable, egg-plant with boiled rice. By 9 p.m. the staff was giving us crabby looks willing us to leave, probably wanting the place for them selves as as smoking was, year 2009, permitted in restaurant cars and not in corridors. A few stare backs later we obliged and dallied in the corridors as it was still to early to call it a day. By now it was a ‘silent’ train with no soul around and nothing visible outside, it was still raining, there was no choice but to sleep it out. I did wake up once, probably when the train halted, but could make out only silhouettes and empty platform. T 98 stops at few stations including Guangzhou for passengers to disembark. Next day was bright and sunny and this somehow metamorphosed into ‘last sunrise’ for next 5 days. Beijing was grey and gloomy and Shanghai a shade better. The light brought along some life along the tracks and roads with pensioners sitting in front of houses and somewhere along the line children playing in the accumulated rain water. We were moving towards towns or cities with progressive tangible structures and well-organized greenery interspersed with sections of crowded housing and a perfected village ambiance of street corners and food stalls. Lunch in the restaurant car accompanied by black milk tea, tasted more of Carnation milk and not worth 30 Yuan (teapot), and the twenty-two hours were stretching into forty-eight. There was no interaction with fellow passengers, still in their cocoons visible through half closed doors. The toilets too were loosing out on cleanliness and we were looking forward to a refreshing water soak and cup of hot Indian or black milk tea. The train streamed into Beijing West platform or what, to me, appeared a mirror image of a ‘World War Two’ German station minus the swastikas and Nazi guards. This section of station was deserted with no milling crowds except for station staff. The health check and disembarkation forms had already been filed and handed over on the train itself and now we had to wait for our number to move out of the privileged area. The first push and shove and this was China of billion heads. The language problem reared its head again and after a few false directions located the ticketing section, for booking Beijing-Shanghai segment, and an English-speaking counter where locals outnumbered tourists. The transaction took time, explaining in slow diction, and by this time the line was getting restive at the extra minutes we were appropriating. A frumpy middle-aged woman came up and hollered, as it sounded to me, at the counter person for taking so long. I felt like hollering back but decided otherwise and waded through the flood of people to relative quietness. By now our collective patience was running out with the high-pitched babble and next step turned equally infuriating. After much asking around the taxi stand was on the lower level, from where we had just come up, and to add to the injustice the down escalator was not functioning. A ‘girl’ Samaritan guided us and before we could figure out our bearings were swamped by cab drivers wanting exorbitant rates.The fare was finally settled for 200 Yuan for the ride to hotel on Baiziwan Road, Chaoyang district. Fortunately we had the Chinese translation of hotel name, otherwise it would have been a taxi ride around Beijing. The hotel reception staff advised us to take metered taxis and ‘take receipts’. We had traveled from an ‘anthill’ to a mountain and the vastness of Beijing remained elusive under its grey skies presenting differing images: the new CCTV tower of ‘Big Shorts or Dakucha’ fame (its shape of two buildings joined together in mid-air) straddling the world; the muscle flexing Great Wall of China or the evanescent triviality of Forbidden City. Railway stations, hutongs and shopping complexes offered brief encounters with people from different corners of the vast country and in process a window into their world. We stayed in Beijing for four days and the city remained ‘out of reach’ as it was on day one. The food, the people, the more we tried to get to know, there was always an invisible barrier between us. I am not much a food person and neither were my two friends so we limited our cuisine explorations to the least, fries and burgers or vegetarian noodles and rice fare. The newer constructions, The Bird’s Nest, and architecture, are large and impassive or as my friend put it, soulless. The rickshaw ride in a hutong was closer to real China experience, of personal and culture, as were the wet markets and food stalls.
Shanghai: Beijing Station (south) is a mammoth structure and pushing our way through a labyrinth of escalators, waiting rooms, passages and walkways, finally located D 301 Beijing/Shanghai express train, an immaculate all white, brand new 200 km sleeper train with staff in spiffy red uniforms and slightly intimidating.
The other two passengers were already in the 4 bunk Soft sleeper, we had the lower bunks, so we quietly fixed our suitcases and had sandwiches and salads purchased from Seven Eleven store. The third friend had stayed back in Beijing so it was two of us now. D 301 sleeper was a 1,500 km luxury for 730 Yuan and 12 hours of travel time from Beijing to Shanghai. We slept our way through the entire stretch as did the two gentlemen in the upper berths till we reached Shanghai early morning. The gray skies were following us and due to night travel missed out the scenery along the route.
Shanghai station was a let down. The train glided to a decrepit platform with non-working escalators, men wanting to carry our luggage to taxis reminding me of Indian stations, though slightly cleaner and presentable. The previous experience in Beijing had prepared us to haggle for taxi fare and we finally made it to our hotel to what appeared to a different corner of Shanghai. Shanghai was a whirlwind two day stop of sightseeing from temples to water towns, the No 1 commercial street Nanjing Road, the Bund along the Huangpu river, the Ming and Qing architectures, Yuyuan Garden, Xin Tian Di with its modern additions, the 1700 years ancient water town of Zhujiajiao, few miles from Shanghai, the Jade temple…. the city is a mishmash of ancient and modern, of Chinese and western. Communication was again a major handicap and on occasions we were rescued by youngsters, when we lost our way or were stumped by restaurant menus. At one roadside eatery, my friend conducted an impromptu pantomime of flapping chicken wings to order a chicken dish though ultimately were served beef. It was near closing time so they just dumped whatever was available with the expression ‘ lump it’. I am a non-beef eater and saved was again helped by a youngster, who in his broken English, confirmed our fears. We also said lump it and left without any ‘tippo’. Shanghai warrants another visit and this time an exhaustive one.
RETURN JOURNEY: 36 hours in this ‘Paris of the Orient’ and we ready for return journey to Hong Kong via T 99. Reported an hour earlier for immigration clearance and patiently waded in slow motion to waiting train through teeming mass of luggage toting crowd. This time it was Hard Sleeper with 6 bunks, the upper, middle and lower. The berths were padded with clean sheets, comforters and pillows and items missing were water thermos, TV, sliding door and slippers. Our companions, girl studying in Switzerland and her friend probably working in Hong Kong, were too engrossed in each other. The first thing she did, next morning, was to diligently retouch her face, oblivious of our enthralled attention. The 5th and 6th passengers had not checked in ( top berths) so we did not feel squashed in our middle berths….small mercies.
The hard-sleeper carriage was crowded, and the narrow folding tables and chairs , placed in the corridor, were convenient sitting cum look-outs. There was this tourist busy pounding on his laptop probably blogging his experiences; a group playing cards and a mother tutoring her daughter. It was a tired and a quiet lot returning home or preserving energy for Hong Kong visit. Once again we risked dinner in the restaurant car, oily eggplants with white rice, leaving the Kentucky Fried burgers purchased at Shanghai station for breakfast. There is hot and cold water available in train, convenient to make cup noodles or tea/coffee, the three-in-one variety. The early morning sun streaming in through the windows was welcome after a five days absence, though the irritating piped music was grating. But it did not lessen the charm of the transitory countryside as the train passed through Guangzhou East to reach Hung Hom around one p.m. An end to a seven-day journey to be reconstructed at leisure of its plus points, a window to a country which till then centered around ‘Indian Chinese cuisine’ and ‘Made in China’ products.